Zucchini & fiori di zucca
| July 10, 2012 | Posted by ameliaps under Italian, spaghetti, squash, summer, vegetables, zucchini |
In the summer, all the area around Naples (I grew up in Sorrento) makes fritto misto, a mixed fried antipasto that can include a variety of seafood, vegetables and herbs, deep fried in a yest batter, which goes under the name of pasta cresciuta (pastetta or pastella). It is really simple to make, with four basic ingredients: flour, water, yeast, and salt. The wonderful thing about it is that, when this dough is immersed in boiling oil, it grows (hence the name pasta cresciuta which literally means “grown dough”). My personal favorite fritto misto is fiori di zucca (zucchini blossoms), plain, not stuffed. You can try coating this magic batter with virtually anything you wish: mozzarella, lemon slices, tiny fish, shrimp, salt cod (baccalà), seaweed (alghe), sweetbreads (animelle), vegetables, herbs,…. OR, you can even fry some plain rounds of dough, and top with a quick smashed cherry tomato sauce, basil and grated Parmigiano, to make pizzette fritte (mini fried pizzas). An important note is that not all fritto misto is made with the batter, some ingredients just call for a flour coating (e.g. calamari), but you need to make sure the ingredients is super dry before you coat it, and others yet (alici: anchovies, latterini & bianchetti: smelt & whitebait) call to be dorate e fritte, which means golden and fried with a classic flour and egg coating. You have to eat all this frienno e magnanno, which literally means frying and eating, right out of the frier, as fritto misto has to be eaten super-hot, typically in the kitchen, with kitchen paper to hold it together (and half a lemon t-preferably from Sorrento – to squeeze right on the fish, when present), while the host/hostess prepares the rest of the meal. It’s part of the ritual.
| Pasta cresciuta (for fritto misto) |
|
- 1 cake (0.6 oz) fresh yeast or one envelope or 2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast
- 2 cups warm water, or as needed to make a thick batter
- 1 tsp salt
- 250 gr. (2.5 cups) bread or all-purpose flour
- Fritto misto ingredients to coat (e.g. zucchini blossoms)
- Frying Oil (sunflower seed, peanut, and corn oil). I think peanut is best.
- (This amount makes about 24-30 fritters)
- Mix the yeast with 1/2 cup warm water in a bowl and allow to regenerate, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining water and the salt.
- Start adding the flour, in small additions, whisking with a fork, until a smooth creamy (not thick, not thin) batter is formed. Allow to rest, covered, for about an hour.
- When ready to fry, stir the batter, and add your “fritto misto” ingredients in, coating with a fork.
- Heat about 8 cm (3 inches) of oil, in a deep heavy wide frying pot, until about 190 °C (375 °F). Drop the batter (or the batter-coated ingredient) by the spoon-ful, without crowding the pan. Flip the fritters on the other side when golden then drain on kitchen paper.SERVE HOT!!!
Spaghetti con le zucchine e fiori di zucca:
Plain fried zucchini are also wonderful with spaghetti. There is this small place not far from Positano (in a bay called Nerano), which mastered this dish (the place is da Maria Grazia). The recipe can be found here. We used to dock there in the summer and, after a long swim, we’d sit on the restaurant’s weathered deck, barefoot, with a bunch of friends, and a glass of white wine (Furore Bianco, Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, Falanghina del Sannio, or Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio), around 4 or 5 pm (and that was lunch, not dinner!) to have Spaghetti con le zucchine. When making this dish at home, my parents add their special touch, by adding a bit of chopped fresh zucchini blossoms, turning the dish into a real piece of artwork. Because the dish only has a few ingredients, they must be the very best (durum pasta – preferably from Gragnano -, freshly picked zucchini and basil, the best cheese – Parmigiano Reggiano and/or provolone del monaco -). There is a secret to this dish, and that it is the addition of a small dab of butter at the very end mixed with some of the pasta cooking water, which allows the dish to mantecare (cream), a procedure usually reserved for risotto.
Zucchine alla scapece and zucchine bollite all’olio e limone:
I have two more favorite preparations for zucchini: 1) zucchine alla scapece (grilled or fried, then marinated in layers, with extra virgin olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of red wine vinegar, some shredded mint, and garlic slivers) and 2) zucchine bollite all’olio e limone (steamed for just a few minutes, then seasoned with excellent olive oil, a smashed garlic clove, salt and a squeeze of the best lemons you can find). In the spirit of summer, these really are non-recipes: you should know the technique but the ingredients need to be measured with your taste buds and a pinch of experience!
Lastly, here is a photo of alici dorate e fritte (fresh anchovies, fish bone removed from center, golden and fried with a classic flour and egg coating), served with lemon wedges:
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Fabulous, all of it! Especially the alici dorate e fritte.
Denise | Chez Danisse recently posted..And Then There Was Space
Denise: those anchovies are like cherries, you just can’t stop at one!
Zucchini blossoms are such a treat, so delicate!
Sylvie @ GitK recently posted..Avocado and Romaine Salad with Walnuts
Sylvie: indeed, and because they are so delicate, I prefer them without filling.
How funny! I was going to prepare a post about zucchini flowers with a Corsican recipe – stuffed! Great minds think alike.
David @ Frenchie and the Yankee recently posted..Frenchie and the Marriage Proposal
David: I am now curious about your recipe…
Hello, I am new to your blog…and I LOVE it! I would have to catch up on your previous posts! Anyway, I love fiori di zucca! However, I can’t seem to catch them here in Toronto, Canada. Either the markets are all sold out or the season in short? I love fried zucchini flowers! So delicious! I hope I can find some zucchini flowers here soon!
Jen L @ Tartine and Apron Strings recently posted..Pappardelle with Chanterelles in a Light Chardonnay Cream Sauce
Jen: so glad you stopped by! You might be able to grow your own… zucchini are very prolific, just make sure you get Italian heritage ones.
Hi Amelia! Thank you for stopping by my blog and I’m glad I could find your blog! Yay! I was browsing your recipes and really excited. So many great recipes here! I’ve been following some Italian bloggers and have seen zucchini flower recipes. I am not sure if we can get them here, but it would be wonderful if I could – I want to try this recipe!
Nami | Just One Cookbook recently posted..Cherry Ice Cream
Nami: well, it’s wonderful that we both found each other! In terms of the zucchini flowers, as I mentioned to Jen, if you can’t find them…grow them!
My shameful secret is my deep love of all things deep fried! I love the use of zucchini blossoms. It’s so unique, it’s completely justifiable to deep fry them.
PS: Thank you for stopping by my blog so I could discover your gorgeous blog!
Azmina: I am with you! while I know frying is not the healthiest of preparation, I HAVE TO indulge in it once in a while, and what better option that fried vegetables? I also like tempura as an alternative to fritto misto…
I recently topped a pizza with zucchini blossoms and loved that too. GREG
sippitysup recently posted..Sicilian Cherry Tomato & Almond Pesto with Couscous
Greg: interesting. I have not had pizza with fiori di zucca yet. I imagine it would have been a white pizza, with just cheese…
Let me know when you’re cooking up all of these again. I’ll fly in! Drooling big time!
Joan Nova recently posted..A 5-Tapas Cocktail Party for 5-Years of Blogging
Joan: only if you bring one of your tapas
I’m tempted to start growing zucchini just to have the flowers! Love them in pasta and atop pizza or just stuffed and fried.
Carolyn Jung recently posted..Ingenius English Muffin Bread — Made In a Microwave
Carolyn: I think that is a fantastic idea
I love all these dishes but my heart belongs to the fiori di zucca
So summery!!!
wonderful ideas, wow you have a ton of them – great pictures too!
The Café Sucré Farine recently posted..Gaye’s Avocado Salad with Tomatoes, Oranges & Vinaigrette Provence
You know I’m smiling, right?
Tracy recently posted..Summer Frittata
Totally! we think alike…
I’m with Denise, the Alici are my absolute favorite, but this all looks so tempting, especially imagining the scenery in Positano….memories!
Nicole recently posted..Summery Spinach and Chicken Salad
Nicole: I miss that place so much, especially now that it’s summer
I’m kind of on a fried food kick lately. This looks awesome!
Jen @ Savory Simple recently posted..Peach Gazpacho (KitchenAid Blender Review)
Jen: you seem to be cooking up such healthy concoctions (but I understand: fried food is hard to resist!)
It’s a good thing I don’t have to pick which zucchini dish I like best–they are all gorgeous. Will have to try frying the blossoms sometime, though. They look too tempting here.
Jean (Lemons and Anchovies) recently posted..On Facing Fears and Nectarine-Blueberry Jam
Jean: I have to say, the pasta with the blossoms is equally satisfying
I love zucchini. I’ve discovered it some time ago and I collect recipes as I like it so much
Marta: isn’t it fascinating how many recipes there are for this wonder-vegetable? I can never get enough myself!
Amelia, I just love how there are so many ways to enjoy zucchini blossoms. Admittedly, I have yet to make them myself – and I have only tried them dried, which was just wonderful. It’s one of those things that is on my list of things to cook each year, and just when I get to thinking about it, I can no longer find them in my markets! Hopefully I won’t go another summer without trying.
Liren recently posted..Panzanella with Artichokes & Olives
Liren: how interesting…I have never seen or tried dried zucchini blossoms. Now I am on a hunt to find some!
wonderful! this year, for the first time, we are growing Cocozelle, an Italian heirloom zucchini, in our garden–and our plants have produced them in armloads. Always seeking new delicious ways to prepare them–your grilled, alla scapece really appeals to me today.
I’m also intrigued by using yeast in the batter for the Fiori.
I so love the blossoms.
nancy at good food matters recently posted..Chocolate Sorbet
Those fried zucchini blossoms look amazing and the pasta dish is so appetizing! Wonderful creations.
Cheers,
Rosa
Yep, you’ve hit some of my favorite summer treats. Non-recipes rule!
Frank @Memorie di Angelina recently posted..Quick Note: Vongole alla brace (Grilled Clams)